by Kiara Wright-Ruizzo, the new York Times
You can make this rolled omelet in a classic Japanese tamagoyaki pan, which is a square dream of a kitchen appliance, but this recipe from Kira Wright-Ruiz works in a nonstick skillet, too. When made right, tamagoyaki is a feat of patience and wonder: First, a thin coating of eggs is rolled over the edge of the pan like a sleeping bag, a second coating forms more layers around the first, and it The process is repeated until you are left with a tender, multilayered omelet that is both mesmerizing to watch and satisfying to eat.
Tamagoyaki, a Japanese staple, is made by carefully rolling several thin layers of poached eggs into an oblong omelet, which creates a soft and delicate texture. Traditionally, it’s made in a special tamagoyaki pan, but this version also works with an 8-inch nonstick skillet. There are sweet and savory variations, and this recipe falls in between the two: soy sauce, mirin, and dashi pack it in with umami, while sugar adds a subtle sweetness. The technique can be challenging at first, but do your best to keep each layer consistent in color and each layer parallel to the last. Don’t worry about the little tears; They will be covered with the next layer.
yield: 2 servings
total time: 15 minutes
Component
- 4 eggs
- 1 tablespoon mirin
- 1 Tbsp white soy sauce or 1/2 Tbsp dark soy sauce
- 1 Tbsp dashi stock, optional (see tip below)
- 1/2 tsp sugar
- 1 teaspoon neutral oil, plus more as needed
Preparation
1. In a small bowl, mix eggs, mirin, soy sauce, dashi (if using) and sugar. Beat until well mixed.
2. HEAT 1 tsp oil in a tamagoyaki pan or a nonstick 8-inch skillet over medium-high. Using a small piece of folded paper towel, carefully wipe off excess oil from pan and set paper towels aside (you’ll need to grease the pan for each egg layer).
3. Pour about 3 tablespoons of the egg mixture into the pan and quickly tilt the pan, moving the egg mixture around to form an even layer. If there are rough areas, gently poke a small hole at the thickest point with a chopstick and swirl and swirl the pan to cover the exposed areas with more raw egg to make an even layer.
4. After the crust is cooked, about 1 minute, using a chopstick or rubber spatula, gently lift the farthest side of the egg to loosen its grip. While tilting the pan, carefully turn the egg about 1/4″ on its side. Continue to fold the eggs evenly over themselves until you have a narrow, rectangular omelet on the side of the pan. If the egg is turning brown then reduce the flame to medium.
5. Using paper towels, lightly grease the exposed area of the pan. Pour 3 tablespoons of the remaining egg mixture into the open area of the pan and swirl it quickly to make another layer. Use chopsticks or a soft spatula to gently lift the folded omelet and tilt the pan toward you so that the raw egg mixture runs under the omelet.
6. Once the crust is cooked, flip the omelet three to four times and roll it away from you. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 with the remaining three layers, greasing the pan before each additional layer. The number of flips will decrease as the omelet increases in size with each additional layer.
7. Once the omelet is done, take it out on a cutting board or plate. Cut and twist crosswise into four pieces, cut side up, to reveal egg layers. (If you’re using an 8-inch nonstick skillet, you can trim both ends of the omelet to make it even.) Serve immediately or refrigerate for later.
tip: Because of the time it takes to make homemade dashi, it can only be used if you already have some ready.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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