Thomas Adamson | Associated Press
PARIS. Hermes leads Saturday’s Paris Fashion Week as veteran menswear designer Veronik Nishanyan brings an atypical glam rock twist to her luxury pieces.
Unlike most of the Parisian exhibitions, there was no far-reaching concept, gimmick or muse, because there was no need for them. Nichanyan, who has run this family business for an incredible 34 years, is an expert in making clothes speak for themselves.
Meanwhile, at the Loewe show, unusual fun awaited the guests. They walked across the sand and passed under 4,000 multi-colored satin ribbons of varying lengths—site-specific works of art—to find their seats.
Minimalism is becoming one of the key themes of this entire autumn-winter season. Here are some highlights from the 2022 menswear shows:
The surreal universe of Loewe
The confusing music sounded like a dangerous playground as clothes began to be displayed on the Loewe sandy runway. “Things are not what they seem,” the house said of the enchanting performance.
Jonathan Anderson, designer of the Spanish brand, said he wants to break the routine of this surreal universe.
He gave fall-winter fashions a twist, for example, by scaling up a pair of dark round-toed boots to almost clown-like proportions.
A white t-shirt and black shorts are transformed into abstract pieces of art with huge round hoops inserted at the edges to give the illusion that the model is cut diagonally down the middle.
The minimalistic and spacious coffee-colored coat in front looked rather modest. But when the model turned around, the outfit featured a double circular pattern in the middle that resembled a shiny back and inspired guests to snap their cameras.
Nichanyan let her hair down for her Left Bank show for Hermes, infusing typical haute couture designs with subtle yet distinct 1980s style.
Shiny bronze-coloured leather riding boots complement loose-fitting zip-up bomber jackets. High-waisted pleated wool trousers contrast with retro-style sloping hats.
The contradictions in style reflected what Dom said was Nichanyan’s “genuine pursuit of oxymoron and sophistication”.
Hermes has become synonymous with simple, unpretentious luxury. With panache, the seasoned menswear designer lives up to the proverb in this stylish and masculine show.
The collection used a bolder color palette, interspersed with brown, bronze, and what the House poetically called “pepper, pewter, pine and salad green (and) frosty blue.”
LGN is nostalgic for the clubs
French writer Charles Baudelaire was the creative starting point for budding French designer Louis Gabriel Nouchy, who launched his brand LGN five years ago after being spotted at the Hyères fashion and photography festival.
Minimalism is the key to understanding the aesthetic of this fashion brand, which has just opened a boutique on the hipster Rue Oberkampf in Paris.
Nuti said his goal was a “modern rethinking” of Baudelaire’s Artificial Paradise, which explores 19th-century hedonism and the effects of drugs on the body. The designer used it to evoke nostalgia for nightclubs closed in France during the pandemic.
The LGN collection featured a lot of exposed skin, sunglasses, bodysuits, loose shirts and tops that seemed to drip off the models like sweat. Literally, at some point, one hoodie got real fake sweat stains.
The colors were dark and subdued—often monochromatic—and punctuated only by strange, flaming flashes of foulard print. The handlebar mustache of a near-naked model in slit white lingerie was reminiscent of the intoxicating heights of a drug-fuelled festival.
Orali can be hugged
“Light, bright, radiant” is a rather unusual autumn-winter mantra for Orali.
However, the Tokyo-based brand’s vision of the sun peeking out from a snowy sky, rather than conveying autumn in a mood or color palette, created a nice seasonal change, especially against the low gray Parisian skies.
The pastel grays and browns, dark vanilla and sky blue that bloomed on the Auralee runway were some of the prettiest hues seen all week. Colors were used in tonal harmony in well-executed outfits that were remarkably simple.
Founded in 2015 by Ryota Iwai, the Japanese house is known for using premium materials from around the world. The ones used in the collection presented on Saturday gave the clothes a truly luxurious look. An array of tweeds blended with wool, silk, herringbone alpaca, wool, cashmere, organic cotton, “hairy” mohair knit and textured camel wool melton.
It was one of the most eye-catching shows of the season.