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Sunday, May 29, 2022

It’s time to drink pink – the season of roses has arrived

Summer has begun, at least in the Celtic calendar, which means rose season is upon us. Irish drinkers are somewhat strict with their fasting consumption, allowing themselves the pleasure of it only when there is hope for the sun. It makes sense on the cheap and cheerful end of things. Few roses offer little more than a refreshing, fruity fun to a nice and cold drink. As a category, however, rosé is diverse and its style is versatile. Wine drinkers know this in France, where they pay more for a rosé than for white wine – and not just in the summer.

Well-made rosé can offer a lot of personality and food-friendly versatility, ranging from understated elegance to bold expressiveness, from bone-dry to off-dry, depending on how and where and with which grapes it’s made. Yes, it depends on it. Some are produced with skill, attention to detail, and the best vineyards for the job. Thus a modern icon such as the Whispering Angel (widely available €25) became an example of the restrained Provençal style, where the emphasis is on light colours, delicate fruit notes and dry minerality achieved through gentle pressing of grapes (in this case in Red Grenache and Cinsault and White Vermentino) and cooler temperate-controlled fermentation.

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