With the pandemic, many historic restaurants in Córdoba closed; And some, little by little, try to reappear. Fogón de los Arrieros did the same a few months ago to reach Circunvalación, on Avenida Valparaíso, in the southern part of the city.
In a shopping center, a room that is well lit (so much so that perhaps the intensity inside has to be turned down slightly) stands on two levels, and that is also attended by its own owners. is, a detail that offers a special warmth, in any restaurant from anywhere in the world.
Legendary grill chef “Cello” Damico is in the room and not only instructs new generations of grillers, who continue to learn the style of cooking that was born 70 years ago in the bosom of the Garrido family in Jesús María, but it Also interacts with tables.
His presence, we have already said, is fundamental. Especially when you count the number of years he worked as a stoker (or waiter) with Mr. Aristobulo Garrido at Jesus Maria. He never roasted, he devoted himself only to watching. Till one day he opened his own restaurant.
As always, the modality is round-and-round roast meat service, landing on a round wooden board, to be shared with diners seated in front chairs. It’s part of the mystique of these places.
The menu presents the option of a full grill only ($7,200) or a portion meal with garnish: you can choose between rump steak ($5,000) or kid ($5,900). To complement, there are pastas (from $2,900), desserts and not much more. Of course people come here to eat barbecue.
And if there is to be roasting, there must be alcohol too. The menu is extensive and has variety. We have chosen one that is an excellent value for money and, moreover, a touch of exclusivity thanks to its second component: La Celia, Malbec-Cabernet Franc, Reserva 2021 ($3,200). From Valle de Uco, which always gives a special mark.
Rump steaks have their own history, and their own techniques for cutting and roasting.
Originally, Garrido sampled picanha on a Brazilian street skewer in Buenos Aires last century and brought the cut to his Jesús María Grill. But he cut the pieces of meat into steaks, against the grain, for tenderness, and roasted them over high heat on a low grill.
We already know the result: It’s a perfect bite on all the grills that inherited this type of grilling. This was no exception. The full grill continues with a parade of 10 cuts, pork, beef, shank, sweetbreads, chitterlings and whatever else is available that day.
Best of all, everything is prepared, made fresh, nothing to preheat or premark, not even the heavenly baby we tried. A total delicacy like the empanada that comes as a courtesy. Empanadas should be a new major tourist destination on the city maps.
The bathrooms are easily one of the best in the city in terms of design and equipment. It almost deserves a separate note.
We return to the living room and go straight to the dessert table to choose from. Everything is there, but we were left with a double portion of white pudding or Isla Fotante (it costs $1,200 to taste up to two desserts).
We round off the composition with a nice sugar-free ristretto ($500) with airy and caramel dessert, which nicely complements and Closes: Jesu Maria Roast.